乃木神社

Sanjin Murano’s vision brought us here, to Nogi-jinja Shrine in Kyoto. He was so moved by the loyalty of General Maresuke Nogi that he built this shrine. Nogi-jinja Shrine stands as a testament to Nogi’s devotion to Emperor Meiji. Murano, a director of several railway companies, witnessed Nogi’s suicide following the Emperor’s death. He was so impacted that he dedicated himself to honoring Nogi’s memory. Nogi-jinja Shrine was established in 1916 near the Emperor Meiji’s mausoleum. It’s a place of quiet reflection, dedicated to a man who embodied traditional Japanese values. Look closely at the shinmon gate. It’s said to be carved from a single, massive, 3000-year-old Taiwanese hinoki cypress tree. This speaks to Nogi’s time as the Governor-General of Taiwan. He was apparently quite popular there, and the people willingly contributed this grand tree. Two bronze statues stand guard at the shrine: Su-go, Nogi’s beloved horse, a gift from Russian General Anatolii Stoessel, and Aratama-go, Su-go’s offspring. Within the shrine grounds, you’ll find a replica of Nogi’s childhood home. The original house was in Chōfu, where his family lived after his father, a samurai in the service of the Mori clan, was exiled from Edo. His father had suggested reforms that angered high-ranking retainers. The shrine also houses a museum. This building once served as the third army headquarters during the Russo-Japanese War. It was moved here and contains original masonry with unique “ripple pattern” fossils. These fossils are estimated to be over 500 million years old. A treasure hall displays Nogi’s handwritten letters, including correspondence with families who lost loved ones in the Russo-Japanese War. Nogi’s legacy is further preserved in a monument painted by Soho Tokutomi, commissioned by an admirer who was moved by Nogi’s compassion towards Russian POWs. The anchor of the armored cruiser Azuma, which served in the Russo-Japanese War, rests here as well. It serves as a memorial championed by Kyoto’s navy veterans. Nogi-jinja Shrine isn’t just a place of history, it’s a work of art. It features sculptures by prominent artists like Sadayuki Goto and Sataro Kaji. Their works depict everything from sprinting horses to intricate cloisonné vases. Nogi’s devotion resonates within these peaceful grounds.