Could you imagine Tornavento witnessing a clash of empires? This small hamlet holds a secret chapter in European history. It is a chapter dominated by the Battle of Tornavento.
Tornavento sits near where the Naviglio Grande begins. This canal connects the Ticino river to Milan. Its story is intertwined with trade, transport and even military strategy. But before we delve into canals, let’s journey back to a day of clashing steel.
The year is 1636. The Thirty Years’ War is raging. Cardinal Richelieu of France wanted to weaken Spain’s grip on the Duchy of Milan. He persuaded Victor Amadeus I, the Duke of Savoy, to join the fight. A French army marched across the Ticino River. They dug in near Tornavento to await their Savoyard allies. The Spanish army was larger.
On June 22nd, the Spanish attacked at Tornavento. The Duke of Savoy’s army arrived. The battle became a brutal struggle in the summer heat. Spanish officers described the land as treeless and dry. The fighting began at 8:00 a.m. The Spanish launched multiple attacks on the Franco-Savoyard line. Both sides built trenches and earthworks. The fighting became a series of gunfights and melee combat.
By evening, the Franco-Savoyards had pushed back the Spanish. The fighting continued sporadically into the night. Casualties were high on both sides at Tornavento. The Spanish commander Leganés realized he couldn’t dislodge the enemy. He chose to withdraw his army under the cover of darkness. To deceive the Franco-Savoyard army, Leganés used a clever trick. He had his soldiers plant hundreds of pikes behind their lines. This created the illusion of a strong force. They also left muskets with lit wicks to glow in the night. A rearguard of dragoons harassed the enemy lines.
The retreat was successful at Tornavento. The Spanish escaped without losing baggage or cannons. Victor Amadeus and Créquy, the Franco-Savoyard commanders, were exhausted. They considered it a miracle that they had repelled the Spanish. They chose not to pursue. The Spanish retreated to Boffalora. The Franco-Savoyard army stayed near Tornavento for a few days. They sacked nearby towns and damaged a canal. They then withdrew from Milanese territory. The invasion of Lombardy was a failure. The Battle of Tornavento lasted about 14 hours. The Franco-Savoyard army fired approximately 675,000 bullets. They used 30,000 pounds of gunpowder.
Today, Tornavento commemorates this battle with a reenactment. Volunteers dress in period uniforms. They wield pikes, muskets, and cannons. It is a vivid reminder of a time when this quiet place was at the center of a major European conflict.
But Tornavento is also linked to the Naviglio Grande. This canal, begun in 1177, changed the region. It enabled trade and transport. Stone for the Duomo in Milan traveled via this canal. Imagine boats laden with goods, passing through Tornavento.
So, as you stand here in Tornavento, remember the battle. Remember the canal. Remember the echoes of history that resonate in this seemingly peaceful place. Tornavento is more than just a village. It is a living testament to the forces that have shaped Lombardy.