Yen Phu Ward

Why is Yen Phu Ward’s communal house unlike any other in Vietnam? The answer lies not in its outward appearance, but within its sacred heart. Here in Yen Phu Ward, nestled within Hanoi’s Tay Ho District, stands a communal house that defies tradition. Instead of the usual horizontal altar arrangement, Yen Phu Ward’s communal house boasts a vertical altar setup, reminiscent of an anthill or a Laotian worship structure. This architectural anomaly sparks curiosity and whispers of a unique history. Yen Phu Ward’s communal house hasn’t always resided in its current location. Originally built on the banks of the Red River, a devastating flood nearly 400 years ago forced the villagers to relocate the structure. They chose a plot of land near West Lake, a serene setting that adds to the communal house’s mystique. From the outside, Yen Phu Ward’s communal house appears unassuming, almost lost amidst the modern buildings. However, stepping inside reveals its true grandeur. Massive ironwood columns, some rotted by time but carefully restored, support the roof. The intricate carvings of two dragons adoring the moon, flanked by phoenixes, adorn the gables. This imagery is unusual, even unique among traditional Vietnamese architecture. Yen Phu Ward itself is an ancient village, once situated near the capital’s Yen Hoa gate, earning it the nickname Yen Hoa. The village’s history is intertwined with West Lake, the site of the infamous tale of Le Van Thinh, the scholar who transformed into a tiger and killed the king. The communal house’s vertical altar arrangement remains a mystery. Even the late scholar Tran Quoc Vuong, despite multiple visits, couldn’t definitively explain its origin. Some speculate it’s a vestige of the communal house’s original location, where space constraints necessitated a vertical layout. Others point to similar vertical arrangements in Laotian temples or pre-1964 Vietnamese shrines. The three enshrined deities within the communal house add to the intrigue. They are the Great King Uy Linh Lang, the Great King Vuong Doi, and Vuong Ba Dai Vuong. Uy Linh Lang is believed to be the prince of King Tran Thanh Tong and Queen Minh Duc, his birth shrouded in legend and divine intervention. Yen Phu Ward’s communal house also safeguards historical treasures. Three large steles in the courtyard and a “king’s base” stele inside narrate the village’s history, commemorating its benefactors and protecting its land from encroachment. These relics offer a tangible connection to Yen Phu Ward’s rich past, adding another layer to the captivating story of this unique communal house.