“Without money”. That’s what Agioi Anargyroi means in ancient Greek. We’re standing before the historic church of Agioi Anargyroi in Psiri. It’s a place filled with stories and a rich past.
Agioi Anargyroi isn’t just a church. It’s a landmark that has witnessed centuries of Athenian history. The church dates back to the 11th century. Originally, it was built as a cruciform church with a dome. Unusually, Agioi Anargyroi’s dome was “diplotholikos”. This means it had two floors. Only two other churches in Greece share this feature.
Interestingly, Agioi Anargyroi lacks a narthex. This suggests that it wasn’t the main church of a monastery. In 1651, priest Dimitris Kolokynthis renovated the church. Because of this, it’s also known as Agioi Anargyroi of Kolokynthi. Today, the dome, barrel-vaults and altar arches still stand from the original church.
During the Turkish occupation and the Greek Independence War, Agioi Anargyroi was very important. In 1826, when the Turks returned to Athens, commander Gouras positioned cannons near the church. This was to defend the city. Turkish artillery struck the church. Luckily, the damage wasn’t serious.
Many heroes of the revolution are buried in the courtyard. These include chieftain Nicholaos Sarris and commander Panagis Ktenas. Also interred here is archaeologist Nicholaos Pittakis. Pittakis saved the Acropolis from destruction. Turks were knocking down ancient columns to use lead links for ammunition. Pittakis persuaded the Greeks to supply the Turks with lead to stop this.
Sadly, later generations didn’t respect the church’s history. In 1908, the church was expanded without regard for its original architecture. This resulted in aesthetic damage. Novelist Alexandros Papadiamandis once lived in one of the church’s cells. Writer Alexandros Moraitinis often visited here. Legend says that Saint Nectarios of Aegina served as a deacon here from 1882 to 1885.
Agioi Anargyroi celebrates the saints who didn’t accept payment for good deeds. These “Holy Unmercenaries” include healers and physicians. They treated the sick without charge. Saints Cosmas and Damian are among the most well-known. Inside Agioi Anargyroi, you can see depictions of various saints.
In the courtyard, heroes were laid to rest. Saint Nikolaos Planas officiated here. Moraitidis and Papadiamantis served as deacons at its psaltery. Papadiamantis even lived in a cell behind the church. The cell has been preserved. It is open to visitors.
Note the inscriptions carved in marble over the gates. On the Prothesis gate is written: “WHOEVER EATS MY FLESH AND DRINKS MY BLOOD REMAINS IN ME AND I IN THEM”. The Diaconicon gate reads: “I DID NOT COME TO ABOLISH THE LAW AND THE PROPHETS BUT TO FULFIL THEM”.
Agioi Anargyroi stands as a testament to Athens’ resilience. It is a reminder of the people who shaped its history. As you leave, remember the stories held within its walls. Remember the meaning of its name. Remember the “Holy Unmercenaries”.