“Is this really a church?”, you might ask while approaching this quaint building. This is the Church of Metamorphosis Sotiros, also known as Sotera Kottakis. It stands here in the heart of Plaka. This Byzantine church is a testament to Athens’ layered history.
The Church of Metamorphosis Sotiros dates back to the early 11th century. The Kottakis family, a prominent Athenian family, once owned it, hence the name. The church has seen many changes throughout the centuries.
Originally dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the saviouress, the Church of Metamorphosis Sotiros started as a simple cross-in-square church. It conformed to the Byzantine style. Its initial structure lacked a narthex. Over time, it underwent significant renovations. Some might say these renovations detracted from its original Byzantine appearance.
From 1847 to 1855, the church served as a Russian Orthodox church. This period marked a turning point in its architectural evolution. The building expanded to accommodate the needs of the Russian community. Oblong areas were added to the northern, southern, and western sides. Later, in 1908, a spacious area was added on the west. In 1917, two bell towers were added.
Despite these changes, the original Byzantine core of the Church of Metamorphosis Sotiros remains visible. The eastern face, with its semicircular apses, stands in excellent condition. The central apse is wider than the side apses.
The dome is an “Athenian” type. It is octagonal with marble columns and lobed windows. Interestingly, a torso of a Roman-era marble statue was used as structural material on the dome’s northern side.
Inside the Church of Metamorphosis Sotiros, post-Byzantine murals from the 18th and 19th centuries adorn the walls. The marble screen is a 20th-century addition. A marble fountain from the 17th century and scattered ancient architectural fragments can be found in the small garden.
The Church of Metamorphosis Sotiros celebrates its feast day on August 6, the Transfiguration of the Saviour. Saint Nikolaos Planas was ordained here. Archbishop Damaskinos, a significant figure in modern Greece, served as a deacon at the Soteira Kottaki Church.
Today, the Church of Metamorphosis Sotiros stands as a triune structure. The left nave is dedicated to Saint Dimitrios. The right nave is dedicated to Saint George.
In February 2009, a restoration program revealed a unique jeweled cross mural dating back to the 11th century. This discovery highlights the church’s rich history and artistic significance.
So, next time you pass by this unassuming church, remember its long and varied history. The Church of Metamorphosis Sotiros has truly witnessed Athens’ transformation through the ages.