Named after a Byzantine family, Agios Georgios Koutalas stands as a testament to Athens’ layered history. Information on the monastery of Agios Georgios Koutalas is scarce. Yet, it appears to have been a sacred worship site since ancient times. According to mythology, the name Koutalas comes from Hercules. Hercules killed a lion on Mount Kitheronas with a club of strong wood. This club was called “koutali”. He brought it to the area named Koutala.
The name Agios Georgios Koutalas itself holds a clue. “Koutalas” derives from a Byzantine family name. This connection hints at the church’s historical roots. The monastery of Agios Georgios is near the municipal cemetery of Vironas. It is considered a glebe of the monastery of Kessariani. This suggests it was founded later than Kessariani.
Now, let’s journey to another Agios Georgios. Perched atop Mount Lycabettus is the stunning whitewashed church of Agios Georgios. This Agios Georgios dates back to 1870. Imagine the panoramic views from up there. You would see the entire city of Athens stretched beneath you. According to myth, Mount Lycabettus was a rock dropped by Athena. She was bringing it to build the Acropolis. The other story says “Lycabettus” comes from the word “lykos” meaning wolf.
Agios Georgios on Mount Lycabettus stands where the temple of Zeus Extreme once stood. After the first temple was ruined, a basilica-style temple was built on the same foundation. The height of Lycabettus provides amazing views. As you ascend, the landscape unfolds. The blue mountains cradle the white buildings. The Aegean Sea stretches into the horizon.
Legend says that the Cretan monk Emmanuel Louloudakis first used the church for worship. He lived in the hermit cell next door. The church is accessible via 133 stairs. It replaced a Byzantine church. Before that, a temple to Zeus stood there.
If you visit Agios Georgios on Mount Lycabettus today, you will find a viewing platform. There is also the Orizontes Restaurant. Sometimes, you can hear monks singing as you walk back down. An outdoor theatre was built in 1964 in an old quarry. Mikis Theodorakis, Bob Dylan, Leonard Cohen, and Chuck Berry performed here.
Though we are not there right now at Agios Georgios on Mount Lycabettus, it gives you a good impression of the other one. Although dedicated to the same saint, they each offer a unique glimpse into Athens’ past and present. Agios Georgios Koutalas reminds us that even with limited information, we can piece together stories. We learn about families and ancient legends.