Đình Kim Mã

Hidden in plain sight, Đình Kim Mã stands as a quiet sentinel in Hanoi’s bustling Ba Đình district. It’s a place where history, myth, and the whispers of the past intertwine. Đình Kim Mã isn’t just a temple; it’s a story etched in stone and wood, echoing with the spirits of those who walked its grounds centuries ago. The name itself, Đình Kim Mã, connects us to the Kim Mã area, one of the thirteen hamlets established west of Thăng Long citadel in the 11th century. During the Lý-Trần dynasties, this area was a royal stable, hence the name “Tàu Mã” or “Mã Trại” also used to refer to it. Đình Kim Mã, as we see it today, bears the marks of various renovations, notably those documented in inscriptions dating back to 1875 and 1925. Đình Kim Mã honors three deities: Bố Cái Đại Vương, Linh Lang Đại Vương, and the mandarin Hoàng Phúc Trung. Each deity has a unique tie to this place, adding layers of meaning to the temple’s history. Bố Cái Đại Vương, known as Phùng Hưng, led a rebellion against oppressive Chinese rule in the late 8th century. His courage and leadership resonated deeply with the people, earning him a place of honor in Đình Kim Mã. Linh Lang Đại Vương, a legendary prince, is said to have vanished into the West Lake after his death. His story adds a touch of mystique to Đình Kim Mã. Then there’s Hoàng Phúc Trung, a mandarin who served under King Lý Thái Tông. He’s remembered for recovering the body of the king’s daughter after a boating accident, and for his role in developing the western part of Thăng Long, including the Kim Mã area. Đình Kim Mã holds a unique place in local tradition. Its annual festival on the 10th day of the first lunar month draws crowds who come to pay respects and pray for a prosperous year. The main ceremony features a procession and offerings to the temple’s deities. It’s a vibrant display of community and reverence, a testament to the enduring importance of Đình Kim Mã in the hearts of the people.