“Imagine standing in Piazza Missori today. What if I told you that beneath your feet lies a hidden history of San Giovanni in Conca? This wasn’t just any church. It was once a prominent basilica right here in the heart of Milan.
San Giovanni in Conca’s story is one of transformation. It began as a Paleochristian church in the 5th century. This humble beginning grew into something much grander.
Let’s journey back to the 12th century. Milan faced the wrath of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. San Giovanni in Conca was almost destroyed during these wars. It was then rebuilt in the Romanesque style, gaining three aisles and a crypt supported by ten small columns.
Now, picture the 14th century. Bernabò Visconti, Lord of Milan, decided to make San Giovanni in Conca his private chapel and family mausoleum. He transformed the church into a part of his private compound. Frescoes depicting the stories of Saint John the Evangelist adorned the walls. These vibrant paintings likely dated back to 1355-60. Visconti even commissioned an equestrian statue of himself that stood above the central altar.
Visconti’s wife, Regina Della Scala, was buried here in 1384 in a sarcophagus made by Bonino da Campione’s workshop. After Bernabò’s death, he was also entombed here.
Fast forward to the 16th century. The Carmelites took over the church in 1548. Then, in 1783, the church was deconsecrated, losing its religious purpose. San Giovanni in Conca was repurposed. It served as a shelter for vehicles and carts, later becoming a workshop and warehouse. The bell tower even became part of a telegraph line connecting Paris and Milan.
In the late 19th century, Milan began an urban renewal project. The construction of Via Mazzini required the demolition of San Giovanni in Conca. The Waldensian community saved a portion of the facade. It was moved and reassembled at their new church on Via Francesco Sforza.
The 20th century brought more changes. A new city plan in the 1920s called for the complete demolition of San Giovanni in Conca. World War II paused the work. After the war, demolition resumed. Frescoes were discovered during this process. They were removed and taken to the Sforza Castle Museum. The demolition was eventually stopped, leaving only the apse and crypt.
Today, you can still visit the underground crypt in Piazza Missori. The facade is visible at the Waldensian church on Via Francesco Sforza. The Sforza Castle Museum houses the funerary monuments of Bernabò Visconti and Regina Della Scala, the statue of Saint John the Evangelist, and the rescued frescoes. The tombs of the couple now reside in the nearby church of Sant’Alessandro.
So, as you stand here in Piazza Missori, remember the layers of history beneath your feet. San Giovanni in Conca may be gone, but its story lives on through the crypt, the facade, and the artifacts preserved in Milan’s museums.”