“A place of worship for Tsunayoshi and his mother,” the guidebook whispered, drawing my gaze towards the Hakusan Jinja Shrine. The Hakusan Jinja Shrine, nestled in the heart of Kyoto, stands as a silent witness to centuries of history. It wasn’t always here in this bustling part of the city. During the Tenryaku era, the Shirayama Hime Shrine, as it was known then, was moved from the former Kaga province to Hongo 1-chome. Later, it found a temporary home in Sugamohara, where the Koishikawa Botanical Garden now stands. The shrine’s final move to its current location was orchestrated by Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, the fifth shogun, who wanted to build his estate nearby. This made the Hakusan Jinja Shrine a place of worship for him and his mother, Keishoin. But the Hakusan Jinja Shrine is more than just a historical relic. It’s a living testament to the enduring spirit of Japanese culture. As you stroll through the shrine grounds, be sure to take in the beauty of the hydrangeas that bloom during Japan’s rainy season. And don’t miss the stone that once seated the Chinese revolutionary Sun Yat-sen, a symbol of the shrine’s connection to the wider world.
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