Винтовая лестница

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“A brilliant spectacle almost barbaric” whispered the Duchess of Sutherland. That’s how she described the Jordan Staircase in 1902 after a Winter Palace ball. This isn’t just any staircase. This is the Jordan Staircase of the Winter Palace in Saint Petersburg. It’s a pivotal part of Russian history and the State Hermitage Museum.

The Jordan Staircase gets its name from the Epiphany ceremony. The Tsar would descend this very staircase to bless the waters of the Neva River. This mirrored the blessing of the Jordan River celebrating Christ’s baptism. It’s one of the few parts of the palace retaining its original 18th-century style. Imagine the grandeur of that moment. The Tsar in all his regalia. Hundreds of footmen in scarlet liveries. Cossacks standing guard.

The staircase’s history isn’t without drama. A fire ravaged the palace in 1837. The damage was severe. Nicholas I commissioned Vasily Stasov to restore it. Stasov meticulously followed Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli’s original plans. Yet he made subtle alterations. The gilt bronze handrails were replaced with white marble. The original pink columns became grey granite.

Look at the ceiling. The 18th-century artwork depicts the Gods on Olympus. Alabaster statues of Wisdom and Justice stand proudly. Grandeur and Opulence grace the walls. So do Fidelity and Equity. Mercury and Mars complete this impressive collection. At the center of the first landing sits an anonymous 18th-century marble sculpture. It’s an Allegory of the State. Each detail speaks of power and artistry.

The staircase’s double height is breathtaking. As guests ascended they moved from a shaded area into a brightly lit room. Sunlight poured in through two tiers of windows overlooking the Neva. The light reflected off mirrors. This mirrored effect was a favorite technique of Rastrelli. He used it in other palaces like Peterhof and Tsarskoye Selo.

Rastrelli originally intended gilded copper for the banisters and balusters. He envisioned pink walls and white stucco. Yet by 1761 artificial marble clad the walls and columns. The rococoils were gilded. These changes don’t diminish the beauty of the staircase. They simply add another layer to its fascinating evolution.

The Jordan Staircase remains a focal point. Today visitors from around the globe ascend these very steps. They step into a world of imperial opulence. They stand in a place where history unfolded. They share in the echoes of grand balls and ceremonies. The Jordan Staircase isn’t just a staircase. It’s a portal to the past. It’s a testament to Russian heritage. It’s a sight that will stay with you long after you’ve left the Hermitage.

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