High above Dili, arms outstretched in perpetual embrace, stands Cristo Rei of Dili at Capela Cristo Nai Liurai Cmea. A colossal statue of Jesus Christ, it crowns the peak of Cape Fatucama. It’s not just a statue. It’s a story etched in copper, a narrative whispered by the wind as it whips around the 27-meter high figure. Capela Cristo Nai Liurai Cmea isn’t just a place to visit. It’s a journey to undertake. As you begin your ascent up the 570 steps, shaded by trees, consider the 14 Stations of the Cross that mark the path. These stations represent the arduous journey of Christ to Calvary, adding a layer of spiritual reflection to your physical climb. Capela Cristo Nai Liurai Cmea, gifted by the Indonesian government in 1996, carries a complex history. Initially intended as a symbol of integration, it quickly became a point of contention. Xanana Gusmão, a key figure in Timor-Leste’s resistance movement, criticized the statue as Indonesian propaganda. Even Bishop Belo questioned the gesture, emphasizing the importance of actions over symbols. He pointedly asked, “What’s the point of building a statue to Jesus if people are not going to be treated according to the gospel?”. The statue’s designer, Mochamad Syailillah, also known as “Bolil,” faced his own challenges. He had never built such a large statue before. He meticulously designed the statue, taking into account the challenging terrain and the powerful winds that buffet Cape Fatucama. The 27 copper sections, each weighing hundreds of kilograms, were shipped from Bandung, Indonesia, and assembled on site. Now, at Capela Cristo Nai Liurai Cmea, pause for a moment at the base of the statue. Feel the wind and take in the breathtaking panoramic views. The vibrant city of Dili sprawls below. The sparkling waters of the Bay of Dili stretch towards the horizon. In the distance, the island of Atauro beckons. To the east, Jesus Backside Beach offers a different perspective. Capela Cristo Nai Liurai Cmea stands as a testament to Timor-Leste’s resilience. It has transitioned from a symbol of Indonesian occupation to an emblem of Timorese national identity and faith. It’s a place where history, spirituality, and natural beauty converge. A place to reflect on the past, embrace the present, and look towards the future.
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