Wat Kum Kam: Why is this historic temple half-submerged? This temple always seemed out of place to me. The ruins are impressive, especially when you consider Wat Kum Kam was built over 700 years ago. The Lann-style architecture has survived remarkably well considering. However, no matter how many times I’ve visited, most of the temple is underwater.
The ancient city of Wiang Kum Kam had an unfortunate design flaw. It sits on low-lying land! When King Mangrai established his fledgling Lanna Kingdom’s capital here, he chose a site previously occupied by the Mon people for centuries. This area, along the banks of the Ping River, was prone to flooding.
This flooding issue ultimately forced the Lanna capital to move north to higher ground. The king chose the site of modern Chiang Mai, nestled at the base of Doi Suthep. However, Wiang Kum Kam persisted as a satellite city within the growing Lanna Kingdom.
Wat Kum Kam endured these floods for well over a century. This temple was built right in the heart of the old city. The temple’s design is similar to other ancient temples in the area. It includes a large brick viharn (worship hall), an octagonal stupa, and an ubosot (ordination hall).
The temple’s principal Buddha statue would have been enormous. This is evident from the large pedestal found in the viharn and the size of the hair curls that were also unearthed here. Archaeologists also discovered beautifully-crafted bronze fragments. These likely belonged to smaller Buddha images.
Wat Kum Kam, despite its watery grave, remains a fascinating site. It’s a testament to the endurance of history and a reminder of the power of nature. The next time you’re in Chiang Mai, take time to visit Wiang Kum Kam and ponder the stories whispered beneath the surface.