Imagine weary travelers once sought refuge within these walls. This is Arab Sarai. It is a 16th-century caravanserai. It is located within Delhi’s Humayun’s Tomb complex.
Arab Sarai offers a glimpse into Mughal-era hospitality. Some say Humayun’s widow, Haji Begum, built it in 1560. She supposedly sheltered 300 Arab mullahs en route to Mecca. Others believe the name is misleading. They argue it housed Persian craftsmen. These craftsmen were building Humayun’s Tomb.
In 2017, the Aga Khan Trust for Culture began a project to conserve Arab Sarai. The restoration was completed in November 2018. In 2019, the trust planned to restore the baoli. A baoli is a stepwell. Funds came from the German embassy. Arab Sarai is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a part of Humayun’s Tomb complex.
The building features arched cells along its enclosure walls. Sadly, most cells are now in ruins. The northern gate remains intact. It stands 12.2 meters tall. It features quartzite with red sandstone. Marble inlays add to its beauty. The gate chamber once had a dome. Sadly, the dome has collapsed. A balcony window sits above the main gateway’s arch. Six brackets support it. Pyramidal domes crown more balcony windows. Yellow and blue tiles once adorned these domes.
Arab Sarai has two more gateways. One faces east. The other faces west. An inscription marks the eastern gateway. It states Mihr Banu built it during Jahangir’s reign. It served as a market entrance. The market also contained arched rooms. These rooms are also in ruins now.
The majestic gateway measures 13 meters tall. It has five arches, chambers and a domed roof. Niches flank both sides. Hamida Banu Begum built it in 1560. She was the chief consort of Mughal Emperor Humayun. It was to accommodate 300 Arabs. She had brought them back from Mecca, Saudi Arabia.
The lofty eastern gateway was part of a walled enclosure. It was a bazaar during Emperor Jahangir’s reign. It ran along Arab Sarai. A Persian writer, Sangin Beg, referred to this inn. He called it “property of Arabs and other general populace.” This was in his book Sair-ul-Manazil written in 1820.
The doorway is a blend of red sandstone and Delhi quartzite. It had become weak and faded. This was due to the age of the building. Temporary repairs used cement mortar. This led to water stagnation. It further damaged the appearance of cracks. Seepage caused dampness and salt deposits. Early repair work was shabby. Quranic inscriptions were affected by cement plastering. Parts of the roof caved in and tiles went missing. During restoration, the central ceiling medallion was left blank. There was considerable loss of artwork.
Today, Arab Sarai stands as a testament. It reflects Mughal architectural styles. It reminds us of a time. It was a time when travelers sought shelter. It was also a time when skilled artisans shaped history.