Have you heard of the moss-covered Mizukake Fudo at Hozenji? Hozenji is nestled in Osaka’s bustling Namba district. It’s a place where history and legend intertwine. Hozenji was originally established in 1637. It was relocated from Uji, Kyoto. The temple is dedicated to Fudo Myo-o. He is a fearsome Buddhist deity. His statue stands tall, covered in a thick layer of moss. This is due to decades of visitors splashing water onto it.
Hozenji was once known as Sennichi-ji. This was because the monks performed sennichi nenbutsu (prayers for 1,000 days). The avenue in front of the temple is still called Sennichimae-dori. The temple was largely spared during the World War II air raids. Only the Fudo Myo-o statue survived.
Two narrow alleys, Hozenji Yokocho, run alongside the temple. They offer a stark contrast to the bright lights of Dotonbori. The northern alley is particularly charming. It features flagstones, traditional storefronts, and lanterns. These flagstones were laid in 1982. A fire in 2002, caused by a gas leak at the neighboring Naka-za Theater, destroyed much of Hozenji Yokocho. Thankfully, there were no casualties.
The hanging wooden sign at the west entrance was created by Kanbi Fujiyama. He was a famous comedian. He intentionally left out a stroke in the character “zen” (good). This fueled much speculation. Some believe it reflects his self-proclaimed status as “not such a good guy.” Others think he simply made a mistake. The east entrance sign was made by rakugo performer Harudanji Katsura III. It is much neater and has all its strokes.
Near the moss-covered statue is Meoto Zenzai. It’s a zenzai shop founded in 1883. The shop is famous for serving two small bowls of zenzai instead of one large bowl. This supposedly gives the illusion of having more. The shop’s name, and its unusual serving style, inspired Sakunosuke Oda’s 1940 novella “Meoto Zenzai”.
The popular ballad “Tsuki no Hozenji Yokocho” further cemented the area’s reputation. The song tells of a young chef bidding farewell to his love. He promises to return after perfecting his culinary skills.
Hozenji Yokocho is now home to a variety of restaurants. They offer everything from traditional Japanese cuisine to Western-style bars. But the heart of Hozenji remains the moss-covered Fudo Myo-o. Visitors continue to splash water on the statue. They light incense and offer prayers. This tradition is said to have begun after World War II. A local woman started splashing water on the statue. She believed it would bring good luck.
Hozenji is a unique blend of old and new. It embodies Osaka’s vibrant spirit. It’s a place where you can experience centuries of history and tradition. You can also enjoy a delicious meal or a quiet drink.