Carrickgollogan Hill

Is that a chimney perched atop Carrickgollogan Hill? That’s the first question that might pop into your head as you gaze upon this Dublin landmark. It is not a functioning chimney, but a fascinating remnant of a bygone era. Carrickgollogan Hill, meaning “rock of Uallachán,” rises 276 meters above Rathmichael and Shankill. From its summit, you’ll enjoy panoramic views of south Dublin and north Wicklow. But our story today focuses on the unusual structure that catches the eye. That chimney is part of the ruins of the Ballycorus lead works. In the early 1800s, this area buzzed with mining activity. Open-cast mining began around 1807. Then, in 1826, the Mining Company of Ireland took over and delved underground, extracting lead and even a vein of silver until 1863. The real action, though, was down in the valley at the smelting facility. Lead from all over Ireland, Donegal to Wexford, was processed here in a reverberatory furnace. Even after the local mine was exhausted, Ballycorus continued smelting ore from Glendalough. Now, here’s the clever bit. In the 1770s, someone discovered a way to extract lead from the smelting fumes. The trick was to trap the vapors long enough for the lead to precipitate. So, in 1836, they built that incredible 2-kilometer flue, snaking all the way up Carrickgollogan Hill to the chimney. It became a landmark for miles around, even appearing on Admiralty charts. Imagine workers scraping out the lead deposits by hand. Sadly, this work came at a steep price, as many succumbed to lead poisoning, earning the area the grim nickname “Death Valley.” While you enjoy the fresh air here on Carrickgollogan Hill today, imagine the toxic fumes that once billowed from this industrial marvel. Down in the valley, remnants of the smelting works still stand: furnaces, purification tanks, and even workers’ cottages, all constructed from sturdy granite. Carrickgollogan offers not just breathtaking views, but also a poignant reminder of Ireland’s industrial past. This hill holds within its slopes a story of innovation, hardship, and the enduring power of human ingenuity.