Pombeiro

“Lost Roman roads?” a child’s voice chirped, tugging at his father’s sleeve. “Did Romans really walk here near Pombeiro?” The Monastery of Santa Maria de Pombeiro, often shortened to Pombeiro, has seen centuries march past, from Romans to royalty. Traces of an old Roman road and aqueduct whisper tales of a distant past, nestled right beside Pombeiro. The monastery itself began its story in 1059 thanks to Dom Gomes Aciegas. It was finished in 1102. Whispers of an earlier religious presence exist, echoing in a papal brief from 853. Those earliest days left their mark on Pombeiro. Two small chapels beneath the main altar still remain. You can also see the original main entrance and four fortified arches. Pombeiro’s history intertwines with Portugal’s powerful families. Queen Teresa placed it off-limits in 1112. Later, Afonso I granted Pombeiro privileges in 1155. The Sousa family, patrons of Pombeiro, chose its porch as their burial place. Vasco Mendes de Sousa was laid to rest here in 1242. Throughout the 12th century, royal favor showered Pombeiro with precious reliquaries, placed within the church’s altars. Architectural transformations continued through the ages. The eastern portico and rose-window saw changes in 1234. A second wave of work on the church façade happened by 1272. Abbot António de Mello ordered further improvements in the late 16th century. Jerónimo Luís added the two exterior towers in 1600. Pombeiro boasts an impressive artistic heritage. Between 1770 and 1773, Friar José de Santo António Ferreira Vilaça crafted the main chapel’s retable. He also designed the choir embellishments, rosewood pews, and four chapels. He continued with two lateral retables from 1774 to 1777, with two more added after him. By 1785, Pombeiro was a canvas of vibrant color. Sadly, the 19th century brought decline. The Benedictine monks were expelled in 1834. Pombeiro was left to decay, its stones pilfered for other projects. Thankfully, recognition came in 1910, declaring Pombeiro a National Monument. Starting in 1958, through the Estado Novo regime and beyond, restoration efforts breathed life back into the monastery. The tilework, cupola, naves, ceilings, cloisters, bell-towers, and sacristy all received attention. Even today, the work continues, preserving Pombeiro for generations to come.