“Over 500 years of history reside within these temple walls.” Welcome to Wat Phaya Chom Phu. This is a temple rescued from Burmese invaders. King Kawila rebuilt it in 1775. He rebuilt Chiang Mai during the Rattanakosin period. It has a viharn. It has a new ubosot. A chedi was renovated in 1999. There is also a ho trai.
The viharn at Wat Phaya Chom Phu is large. Its interior is very dark. It dates from the 19th century. It was renovated in 1982. The viharn has a two-tier roof. It features a triple horizontal split in the main section. Nagas are arranged along the bargeboards. Chofa finials are placed at the apexes. The gable end is richly decorated. There is carved foliate work in gilt. It is set on a sparkling blue background. Green highlights accent the design.
The impressive portico is supported by eight columns. The columns are painted white. They feature lotus capitals in gilt. These columns are fluted. This may be a recent addition. It possibly occurred during the 1982 renovation.
The portico has old murals. They run along the inside of the porch like a frieze. They sit just below the roof. The murals depict scenes of conflict. Men with mustaches wear flowery loincloths. They carry clubs. They invade houses and attack people. They seize women. This is probably a scene from folklore. It may depict the Burmese invasion.
Inside, the darkness is striking. Even with open windows, dark teak dominates. Massive teak columns are stained with red and black lacquer. This gives them a mottled appearance. The floor is also wood. It is highly polished.
The main altar contains numerous Buddha images. One is made of marble. It sits in the Vitarka mudra. This signifies teaching and instruction. It also means reassurance. The principal image sits at the back. It is imposing. It sits on a high dais. It is made in the Chiang Saen style. It is in the mudra of calling earth to witness. This is the Subduing Mara posture.
The chedi at Wat Phaya Chom Phu is called Prathat Chedi Tong Jango. It dates from the 16th century. This is when the temple was originally built. The chedi was renovated in 1999. This celebrated King Bumipol’s 50th accession to the throne. Government officials and worshippers donated to the renovation. They offered this to His Majesty the King as a superior worship. Festivities marked the Poi Luang from May 27th to 30th, 1999.
The chedi’s renovation aimed to gain merit. The structure was covered with gold metal sheets. This is a recent fashion. The chedi’s style is Burmese and Lanna. It has a high octagonal base. The base is composed of layers. The mid-section is octagonal. It rises like a pyramid. The bell supports an impressive finial. The finial includes a hti or umbrella. This is in the Burmese style.
Numerous decorative structures surround the chedi’s base. These include gilt chattras. There are mondop towers. Various figures are present. Elephants are also visible, all in gilt. Niches on each side display rich ornamentation. They include finials and nagas.
The ubosot is new. It features a fine multi-tiered roof. Overlapping sections feature naga and chofa finials. Along the roof ridge is a line of hamsas. There is also a central umbrella style finial. The gable end has two large badges. They are symbols set on a sparkling silver background. Gilt edging surrounds the doorway. Two birds decorate the entrance. Naga guardians are absent. This is often the case with modern buildings.
The ho trai has two floors. A spiral staircase leads to the upper floor. The walls are plain white. Chinese characters cover one of the pillars. The gable end features a pair of tigers in bas-relief. Nagas decorate the roof edges.
Perhaps Wat Phaya Chom Phu’s most memorable feature is the small north entrance. It appears to be part of the original temple, over 500 years old. The gateway is in the form of a chedi. You walk through it. It is made of brick. It is surprising how it stays upright.
Next to the main entrance is a small pavilion. It holds a sculpture. A standing Buddha is in the Abhaya mudra. This signifies reassurance and protection. It is made from a single block of marble. Wat Phaya Chom Phu stands as a testament to history. Its art and architecture reflect centuries of devotion.