Wat Nong Kham

Hidden within Chiang Mai’s bustling streets lies Wat Nong Kham, a temple unlike any other. This isn’t your typical Thai temple. Wat Nong Kham resonates with the unique traditions of the Pa-O people, an ethnic group hailing from neighboring Myanmar. Look closely at the architecture. Notice the distinct Burmese-Shan influences, setting it apart from the traditional Lanna style seen in most Chiang Mai temples. Wat Nong Kham shares this architectural kinship with other Burmese-Shan temples in the city, like Wat Pa Pao and Wat Sai Moon Myanmar. The story of Wat Nong Kham begins long ago. A plaque near the entrance reveals a title deed dating back to 1584. However, the main structures you see today arose in 1837, thanks to the combined efforts of the Lanna and Pa-O communities. Legend has it that seven elephants were sold to finance the construction. Imagine the procession of these magnificent creatures, their sale marking the beginning of Wat Nong Kham’s physical manifestation. Within Wat Nong Kham’s walls, you’ll discover a fascinating blend of architectural styles. The viharn, or assembly hall, is a multi-tiered Burmese-style structure. Its upper floor serves as the main worship area. Ascend the grand staircase, flanked by a spectacularly gilded portico, and step into a world of polished dark wood floors and high ceilings. The interior echoes the design of Wat Pa Pao, another Shan temple in the city. Golden lacquer columns support the red-lacquered wooden roof, creating a rich, warm atmosphere. The main altar, facing south, is a dazzling display of colorful glass mosaics, arranged in star and diamond patterns. Here, a white Burmese-style Buddha statue sits in the Subduing Mara mudra, its right hand reaching towards the ground. Flanking it are other Burmese-style Buddha images, one notably black, possibly carved from jade. Don’t miss the five striking gilded standing Buddha images, the lead figure holding an alms bowl. Explore further and you’ll find a chedi, a blend of Lanna and Pa-O styles, dating back to 1846. Chinthe lions guard the corners of its square base, and four decorated archways grace each side. According to a nearby plaque, the square mid-section once housed the Tripitakas, the sacred Buddhist scriptures. Above this, the Lanna style takes over, culminating in a Burmese-style hti, or gilded umbrella, atop the pinnacle. The ubosot, built in the Pa-O style in 1902, features a unique entrance. An arched doorway supports a tower of diminishing square layers. Niches within hold images, some capped with gilded nagas. Inside, according to a plaque, three large Buddha statues reside, the central one a white concrete figure in the meditation posture. Wat Nong Kham is more than just a temple; it’s a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the Pa-O people and a unique addition to Chiang Mai’s diverse landscape.