Obor

Did President Nixon really eat grapes at Obor Market? It sounds like a bizarre trivia question, but it’s true. He did, during his 1969 visit to Romania. He visited Bucharest’s Obor Market, a place that’s been a bustling hub of commerce for centuries. Obor, meaning “enclosure” or “corral” in Old Romanian, started as Târgul Moșilor, a Wallachian fair held twice a week. Imagine, in the 18th century, this area, then outside Bucharest’s city limits, was not just a market but also a place of public executions. About 20 captured Turks were hanged here. The Obor Market you see today, while modernized, carries echoes of this long history. Until 2007, it sprawled across 16 city blocks. It was a vibrant mix of indoor and outdoor stalls selling everything from live chickens to compact discs. This chaotic, energetic market spilled into the surrounding streets and the nearby Bucur Obor, a large commercial building housing hundreds of small independent stores. The old Obor Market, despite public outcry, was eventually demolished to make way for a more modern version and a small park. This marked the end of a 300-year tradition. The new Piata Obor market opened in 2010. It boasts modern facilities and a more structured shopping experience, including refrigerated storage, special elevators for merchants, and even air conditioning. Despite the changes, Obor retains its historical significance. It is a testament to Bucharest’s evolving identity, a place where the echoes of public hangings mingle with the memory of a US president sampling grapes. Obor has a reputation for offering cheaper goods. This has led some to perceive its products as being of lower quality. The Romanian singer Gică Petrescu even immortalized Obor in his song “Uite-așa aș vrea să mor,” expressing his wish to be buried in a local tavern with a glass of red wine. Even today, Obor remains a key part of Bucharest’s commercial heart.