Beyond the bustling streets, does anyone here feel the ancient pulse of Seoul? We are standing before Iljungmun Gate. It stands as a silent sentinel of history.
Iljungmun Gate is more than just stones and wood. It is a gateway to understanding Seoul’s past. This gate once formed part of the Fortress Wall. The wall protected the city during the Joseon period.
The Eight Gates of Seoul provided access to the city. They were constructed between 1396 and 1398. These gates were oriented to the four cardinal and four intermediate directions of the compass. The North, South, East, and West gates were the Four Great Gates. The Northwest, Northeast, Southeast, and Southwest gates were the Four Small Gates.
Two of the eight gates no longer exist. These are the West and Southwest gates. Memorials mark where they once stood. There has been talk of rebuilding the West Gate. Yet no construction has started.
In 2008, the South Gate suffered severe damage from arson. It was rebuilt over five years. It reopened in 2013. This gate is National Treasure No. 1 of South Korea. The South and East gates are the largest. They are in busy market areas.
The eight gates had different names over time. Official names are from signs at the gates. Hanja characters can be read right-to-left or left-to-right. So the character for “gate” can be on either side of the signboards.
The East Gate is also known as Heunginjimun Gate. King Taejo ordered its construction in 1396. It was remodeled in 1453. It was rebuilt in 1869 during King Gojong’s reign.
Heunginjimun Gate features a hipped roof. It has five front and two side compartments on a two-storied building. The bracket system supports the eaves. It shows construction features of the late Joseon period. Ongseong is a half-circle-shaped wall outside the fortress. It protects the gate. Heunginjimun Gate is the only gate with Ongseong.
The Heunginjimun Gate Trail is 1.8km long. It takes about 1 hour to walk. It starts at Heunginjimun Gate and ends at Jangchung Gymnasium. The trail passes Gwanghuimun Gate.
The wall around Heunginjimun is on the lowest ground. Ogansumun and Igansumun water gates drained water from the city. Military facilities were near here. These included Hadogam and Yeomchocheong.
In 1907, the walls on the gate’s sides were removed. Dongdaemun Market opened in 1905. It was the first privately-run urban market in Korea. After the Korean War, it expanded eastward. It is now a hub of the apparel and fashion industry.
Igansumun was unearthed at Dongdaemun Stadium. It is almost entirely preserved. There are no traces of Ogansumun. The Dongdaemun History & Culture Park is on a site of a military camp and gunpowder factory.
Gwanghuimun Gate was rebuilt in 1975. It is 15m south of its original position. The wall disappears in the Jangchung-dong residential area.
As we stand here before Iljungmun Gate, remember the layers of history. The gate has witnessed centuries of change. It remains a symbol of Seoul’s enduring spirit.