Deep within Kyoto’s wooded hills lies a sanctuary of tranquility. This is Saikoji Temple. Officially known as Saihoji, it is often called Kokedera. That means Moss Temple in Japanese. Its stunning garden is carpeted with various forms of moss.
Saikoji Temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its distance from the city and the visitation procedure keeps the crowds away. Founded in the Nara Period, it became a Zen Buddhist temple in the early 14th century. The priest Muso Soseki designed the moss garden. He was a renowned garden designer.
Limited admission makes a stroll in the woods delightful. Most gardens signal the changing seasons with colorful flowers. But Saikoji Temple has a selection of greens. The garden is atmospheric after heavy rain. The shaded cover of the trees seems to hold the dew longer.
The garden has over 120 types of moss. It grew popular after the war. Jiro Osaragi’s novel Kokyo was set here. The pond is shaped like the Chinese character for kokoro. Kokoro means both heart and soul. The pond has three islands named Sunrise, Sunset, and Mist. The teahouses have names from the Blue Cliff Record. It is a classic book of Zen koans.
You must plan your visit to Saikoji Temple in advance. Permission to visit is only granted in writing. On the day of your visit, bring your response card to the temple at the appointed time. An obligatory donation is requested when you arrive.
After you pay, you will be admitted to the main hall. You will participate in a short sutra chanting session. Afterwards, you will write your name, address and prayer on a small wooden stick. The stick will be laid at the altar. This process takes less than 30 minutes. Afterwards, you have time to enjoy the garden’s beauty.
The temple offers the unique opportunity to participate in religious activities. Every visitor is asked to contribute to kito and shakyo. These are the chanting and copying of Buddhist scriptures. Visitors take a seat at low writing desks. A monk leads the room in sutra chanting. Then the copying begins. When ready, visitors can take their sutra paper up to the altar and exit. After this, a stroll through the moss garden is essential.
Completing the activity may take over an hour. Sitting on the floor for this length of time can be uncomfortable. Copying out the sutra is not as challenging as it may sound. A tracing of the Japanese characters guides you. This helps even those with no knowledge of Japanese calligraphy or Buddhism.
During winter, the garden is closed to tourists. This allows it to rest and undergo maintenance work. Instead, visitors can tour the temple’s main hall. They can see its fusuma sliding screens. These screens adorn paintings by 20th century painter Domoto Insho. Instead of copying a sutra, visitors can participate in zazen meditation.
Saikoji Temple is a 20-minute walk from Matsuo Taisha Station. The pond has three islands bearing the names Sunrise, Sunset, and Mist. Don’t miss visiting during the rainy season in June. The garden is at its lushest then. Also see the karesansui rock garden.
Visiting Saikoji Temple is more than a stroll through a garden. It is an immersion into history, art, and spiritual practice. A visit here promises tranquility and reflection. It is a chance to connect with the heart and soul of Kyoto.