Here, in Milan, stands the Vicolo dei Lavandai. Its name translates to Street of the Washers. But wait! Why “Lavandai” with an “i”, the masculine form? This Historic laundry tells a tale that challenges our expectations.
Around 1700, the Washworker’s Guild was established in Milan. Surprisingly, it was a guild of men. Washing clothes was a man’s profession. These lavandai even had a patron saint. Saint Anthony of Padova watched over them. A chapel at Santa Maria della Grazia del Naviglio is dedicated to him. The church stands a few hundred meters down the canal.
The women took over the washing duties later. Up until the 1950s, women used this little area off Naviglio Grande. Here at this Historic laundry, they washed sheets and clothing. Imagine the scene. Women kneeling on wooden platforms, scrubbing clothes. These platforms were called “brellin.”
The building behind this Historic laundry now houses the restaurant El Brellin. It once sold soap and other supplies. These items were essential for the guild. The washers used a substance called “palton”. Palton was a semi-dense paste. It was made of ashes, soap, and baking soda. Can you imagine using ashes to wash clothes?
This Historic laundry is more than just a trough. It’s a split-off from Naviglio Grande. This is the largest of Navigli’s two canals. A low, red-tiled roof covers the area. Stone supports around the edge look like washboards.
This Historic laundry offers a glimpse into Milan’s hidden history. It shows us a time when washing was communal. It reveals a time when men dominated the laundry trade. Next time you’re in Navigli, stop by Vicolo dei Lavandai. Take a look at this tangible piece of Milan’s past. Picture the lavandai, the washers of Milan. They worked hard to keep the city clean. They left behind a story etched in stone and water.
Consider the lavandaie, the washerwomen of Italy’s past. Think about how hard they worked to clean clothes. Early in history, country women washed clothes in the river. They knelt regardless of the season. They brought wooden washboards. Some were very wide for communal laundering. Some households had their own troughs. Water still had to be hauled from the river.
It wasn’t until 1897 that public wash houses were built. Some had roofs with open sides. They protected the women from the sun and rain. Many were built near streams. Fresh running water was directed through troughs. Others had plumbing and elevated tanks. This allowed women to stand. What a luxury that must have been.
At this Historic laundry, the lavandaie needed troughs. They needed tubs with fresh running water. They needed an inclined ramp of concrete or stone. There, they soaped and agitated clothes. They used a two-handed motion like kneading dough. Then, they slapped the clothes to rid them of suds. They removed dirt and odors. They used solid soap. Often, it was made locally. It was a byproduct of slaughtering.
White fabrics, especially sheets, needed bleaching. The day before, sheets were soaked in boiling water. Wood ashes were added. This bleaching agent was called ranno. They added bay leaves, lavender, or rosemary. These gave a fresh scent.
To dry, the sheets were beaten. Then, two women wrung them out. This was due to the heavy weight. Clothes and sheets were hung in the sun. Even today, hanging clothes in the sun is preferred. While Italian households might have a washer, they rarely have a dryer.
This small street bears witness to a time of hard work. It reminds us of the ingenuity and resilience of Milan’s past. The Historic laundry stands as a tribute to those who kept the city clean.