High stone walls guard secrets. These walls surround the Cemitério de Agramonte. Welcome to a city of the dead. It is a museum of history and art.
The Cemitério de Agramonte opened in 1855. A cholera epidemic caused its hasty opening. The main cemetery could not handle the number of deaths. It was Porto’s second public cemetery.
The chapel was built in 1870. It expanded in 1906. Three religious orders have private cemeteries here. They are the Order of Carmo, São Francisco and Trindade.
As you approach the Cemitério de Agramonte note the high stone wall. It once kept animals out. The cemetery spans 12 hectares about 30 acres. It is walled all around.
Inside, you see above-ground tombs. They are mausoleums of different sizes. They line wide paths like streets. Each has a number like an address. Some mausoleums are simple. Others are ornate. They reflect the wealth of those inside. Many tombs have wrought iron doors. Glass panels let you peek inside.
Often, you see caskets on shelves. Some are covered in cloth. Some are in stone vaults. Many sit in the open. Small rooms hold flowers, crosses and bibles. Some have stained glass. One visitor saw a file cabinet. Even in death paperwork exists.
The grounds are well-maintained. Women wash the stones. They fill flower pots. They collect old candles. City employees cut grass and rake leaves. One day workers installed a new roof.
Other plots lack mausoleums. Graves are covered with stone. They hold many family members. Some have decorations. Some have tombstones. Others have placards with names. Dates and pictures mark the deceased. Family is important even after death.
Sadly some tombs are in disrepair. Windows are broken. Stone ornaments have fallen. The families fortunes faded.
A striking memorial honors a tragedy. In 1888 a fire destroyed the Teatro Baquet. The theater lacked safety upgrades. 120 people died. The memorial uses pieces of the theater. Twisted iron forms a wreath. It marks the victims tomb.
The Cemitério de Agramonte offers peace. Sitting on a bench feels pleasant. The inhabitants are quiet. Their monuments tell of hopes and dreams. They show how they saw themselves.
Here lies Abigail de Paiva Cruz. She was a painter sculptor and activist. António Augusto da Rocha Peixoto rests here. He was an archaeologist. Edgar Cardoso a civil engineer also rests here. Manoel de Oliveira the filmmaker is buried here.
Consider what these lives mean. What priorities should you have? The silence here speaks volumes.