San Antonio

Why did Cali’s elite abandon San Antonio in the early 20th century? It wasn’t for lack of charm. San Antonio, perched on a hill overlooking Cali, boasted colonial houses, cobbled streets, and the iconic San Antonio Church. It was picturesque and peaceful, a world away from the bustling city below. San Antonio, officially founded in 1746 with the construction of its church, became a haven for affluent artisans. They built grand homes with central courtyards, stone floors, and fruit trees in their solares. These homes, seamlessly blending with those in La Merced, showcased the neighborhood’s unique architectural style: thick walls, wooden beams, and distinctive four-winged windows. But something shifted. The lack of proper sanitation became a pressing issue. The early 20th century saw open sewers in solares and streets, a stark contrast to the modernizing city. While the construction of the San Antonio aqueduct began in 1915, filtered water wasn’t available to all residents until 1932. This, coupled with outbreaks of typhoid fever and dysentery, drove the wealthy to seek healthier environments. Ironically, the aqueduct, meant to modernize San Antonio, became a symbol of its decline for the elite. Despite this exodus, San Antonio retained its vibrant culture. The neighborhood became a refuge for migrants from Cauca and Nariño, displaced by the Thousand Days’ War. They built simpler homes on the hillside, adding another layer to San Antonio’s diverse character. It was in this era that unique traditions like “Las Macetas” blossomed. This custom of gifting sugar-and-water candies, shaped like animals and flowers, is now a cherished part of Cali’s cultural heritage. So, San Antonio transformed. It became a blend of old and new, rich and poor, tradition and resilience. It’s a neighborhood where artists like Andrés Caicedo found inspiration, where the echoes of “El Corrillo del Gato Negro” still resonate, and where the spirit of Cali thrives, right here in San Antonio.