“Another bridge?” you might ask. No, today we delve into the story of Oberau. This charming district of Freiburg holds more secrets than you might imagine.
Oberau sits just south of the Schlossberg and Hirzberg. It borders Waldsee to the east. Oberwiehre lies to the south and the Old Town to the west. The Dreisam River flows through Oberau from east to west.
Oberau boasts Freiburg’s second-highest population density after Vauban. That’s a lot of people in one lively place.
Once upon a time, Oberau thrived as an industrial hub. It stood just outside the Old Town gates. The Gewerbekanal, diverted from the Dreisam, powered its growth. This canal also fed the famous Freiburger Bächle.
In medieval times, Oberau buzzed with mills. Garnet cutting workshops sparkled here too. The Granatgässle still hints at this glittering past. The 19th century saw Carl Mez’s large yarn factory rise. Fine paper and cardboard factories also set up shop. These factories included generous worker housing for the time.
However, the good times faded. These businesses declined from the mid-20th century. Poor transport links played a part. Buildings and land shifted to residential use.
After World War II, the French military built apartments here. They also erected an administration building. These buildings now serve civilian purposes. Oberau’s closeness to the city center is a major benefit. The nearby nature with the Schlossberg forests and Dreisam meadows is very attractive. This makes Oberau an ideal residential area within Freiburg.
What about Oberau’s oldest buildings? The Gasthaus zum Stahl dates back to the 18th century. It was once a stable. Today it offers a beer garden. Nearby stands the former servants’ quarters. Its large vaulted cellar once served farmers from the Dreisam valley. They parked their carts here on market days. Today, it forms part of the Hirzberg campsite.
Above it all rises the Hirzberg. Part forest, part open pasture it hosts grazing sheep. The Waldstraße winds along the top between the Schlossberg and St. Ottilien. A tall wooden cross marks the spot of the 1978 Catholic Day. Franz Eggenschwieler created the cross. It has stood there since 1979. Also, the traditional Scheibenschlagen takes place on the Hirzberg at the end of the carnival.
Another 18th-century gem is the Dreikönigshaus. It was once the Gasthaus “Zu den Heiligen Drei Königen” dating from 1743. Today, a charity runs a soup kitchen for those in need here.
One of the Mez yarn factory buildings now houses the SWR’s Freiburg studio. The Friedenskirche stands on the eastern edge of Oberau. It was built in the 1950s. Next door, on the former municipal nursery site, you will find the Deutsch-Französisches Gymnasium and the Hochschule für Musik Freiburg.
The Ganter Brewery is Oberau’s last major industrial business. Its malt tower dominates the skyline. The brewery uses its own deep wells. A large beer garden beckons. The Wodan Hall, once a beer storage space, now hosts music events. Folk, rock, and jazz fill the air. In 2015, a former bottling plant became the Gutmann Dance School’s ballroom.
As a curiosity, there is a shoelace factory. It bravely defies modern competition.
Vineyards climb the southern slopes of the Schlossberg. They reach almost to the Old Town. Three wineries cultivate these steep slopes. These vineyards predate Freiburg’s founding. The Freiburger Schlossberg is considered one of Germany’s top 100 vineyards. The steep, south-facing slopes get optimal sun. Cool evening winds from the Black Forest, the Höllentäler, also help. Gneiss bedrock creates excellent conditions for outstanding wines. Some even qualify as Grosses Gewächs.