日吉大社 二ノ鳥居

Deep within a cedar forest, nestled at the foot of Mount Hiei, lies Hiyoshi Taisha. Do you feel the ancient energy emanating from this sacred ground? Hiyoshi Taisha isn’t just any shrine. It’s the head shrine of a vast network, boasting nearly 3,800 Hiyoshi, Hie, and Sannō shrines across Japan. Before World War II, it was known as Hiei Taisha or Hie Jinja. Now, Hiyoshi Taisha is the preferred name. Imagine standing here centuries ago, when the shrine was known as Sanno Gongen. Hiyoshi Taisha’s history is deeply intertwined with the powerful Enryaku-ji temple on Mount Hiei. The shrine’s origins date back to the reign of the semi-legendary Emperor Sujin around 90 BC. The deity Ōyamakui no Kami, originally residing on Mount Hiei, was relocated to this very spot. Later, Emperor Tenji moved the capital to Ōtsu and built the Ōtsu Palace. He brought the deity from Ōmiwa Shrine in Yamato to Hiyoshi Taisha, installing it in the Nishi Hongū (West Main Shrine). The original sanctuary then became the Higashi Hongū (East Main Shrine). Hiyoshi Taisha’s close proximity to Enryaku-ji led to a complex relationship. For a time, the shrine was essentially absorbed by the temple. As Enryaku-ji’s monks spread Buddhism across Japan, they also propagated the faith in the “Sanno Gongen” and the Hie kami. This influence is visible in the shrine’s unique Sannō torii gates, featuring a distinctive gaggle above the crossbeam. Over the centuries, Hiyoshi Taisha faced both reverence and destruction. It became an object of imperial patronage, receiving messengers reporting important events. However, it also witnessed conflict, as warrior-monks from Enryaku-ji used the shrine’s mikoshi (portable shrine) to exert political pressure in Kyoto. In 1571, Oda Nobunaga razed Enryaku-ji and Hiyoshi Taisha to the ground. The shrine we see today was largely rebuilt by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, whose childhood name, “Hiyoshi Maru,” reflects his deep faith in the Sanno Gongen. Look around you. The Nishi Hongū and Higashi Hongū, both designated National Treasures, stand as testaments to this period of reconstruction. Hiyoshi Taisha played a key role in the Meiji Restoration’s separation of Shinto and Buddhism. It was among the first shrines to discard its Buddhist artifacts, sparking a nationwide movement. Now, as you stand before Hiyoshi Taisha, imagine the echoes of centuries past, from emperors and monks to warlords and monkeys. These hallowed grounds whisper tales of faith, power, and resilience, leaving a lasting impression on all who visit.