Who was Saint Peter of Rates? This imposing statue stands before the Romanesque Church of Sao Pedro de Rates a testament to a fascinating history. Legend claims Peter a disciple of Saint James the Great arrived in Portugal in 44 AD. He became Braga’s first bishop martyred for converting pagans. His tomb rediscovered in the 9th century spurred the construction of a church to house his remains. This became a significant pilgrimage site.
The church itself is much older than the statue. Its foundations likely date back to the Roman period. The current building however was largely constructed during the Romanesque period. Count Henry of Portugal funded much of the construction around 1096. He invited monks from the powerful Cluny Abbey in France to establish a Benedictine monastery here. Their work continued through the 12th and 13th centuries. This resulted in a unique blend of architectural styles. The church’s design includes three naves a transept and three eastern chapels. However the original ambitious plan was never fully realized. A wooden roof replaced the planned stone vault.
The church shows modifications from various periods. Some pillars have unusual structures. Window placement is irregular. Buttresses are inconsistently spaced. All this reflects the ongoing adaptation and expansion over the centuries. The Romanesque doorways are especially striking. The main entrance features a rose window above it. The tympanum shows Christ Pantokrator flanked by other figures. Apostles and angels are depicted on the archivolts. The capitals display fascinating motifs: mythical beasts sirens and grotesque human figures. The south facade’s tympanum showcases a low-relief Agnus Dei.
Throughout history the Monastery of Rates experienced periods of prosperity and decline. In the 16th century it was granted to the Knights of the Order of Christ. The 18th century saw a major expansion of the apse chapel. The 19th century’s dissolution of religious orders led to its transformation into a parish church. The early 20th century witnessed restorations. These aimed to recapture the 12th-century appearance. A Gothic bell tower and the northern sacristy were removed. The original apse was reconstructed using the surviving foundations and stones. The rose window was faithfully rebuilt.
The statue of Sao Pedro de Rates stands as a poignant reminder. It commemorates the legendary figure and the rich history encapsulated within the church. It serves as a focal point for reflection on the intertwining threads of faith architecture and time. The statue’s quiet presence invites you to engage with the centuries of history. It offers a profound connection to this remarkable place.