“Take me back to Myokokuji” a strange voice echoed. Here at Myokokuji Temple, we find ourselves surrounded by history and legend. Myokokuji is a Buddhist temple in Sakai, Osaka. It holds significance as one of the head temples of the Nichiren Sect. The temple is also known as the location of the 1868 Sakai incident.
Myokokuji Temple was established by Nichiko Shonin in 1592. It has been rebuilt several times since. During the Summer War of Osaka in 1615, Toyotomi forces burned down Myokokuji Temple. They believed Ieyasu Tokugawa was hiding inside. The temple was rebuilt in 1628. Unfortunately, it was destroyed again in World War II in July 1945. The present buildings were built in autumn of 1973.
The Great Cycad is a sacred tree at Myokokuji. It is over 1,100 years old. Legend says Oda Nobunaga moved the cycad to Azuchi Castle in 1580. Every night the tree cried. It wanted to return to Myokokuji. A strange atmosphere covered the castle. Nobunaga ordered the tree to be cut down in anger. The tree bled and fainted. It looked like a snake. This frightened Nobunaga. He sent the tree back to Myokokuji. Nichiko Shonin recited 1000 sutras for the dying cycad. A god appeared in his dream. He had the face of a man and the body of a snake. The god thanked him for his prayers. He swore three oaths to ease childbirth. He also promised to free people from hardship and give happiness to the poor. Shonin named this guardian god Ugatoku-ryujin. He built a hall for him. In 1923, the tree became a national natural monument.
The Sakai Incident occurred here in 1868. French sailors landed at Sakai Port. They loitered in temples and shrines. They scared women and children. Tosa clan samurai confronted them. They could not understand each other. The French sailors took a flag. The samurai opened fire. Thirteen sailors died. The French retaliated and retreated. France demanded compensation. Japan paid a large sum. Twenty samurai were ordered to commit seppuku. Eleven samurai cut their stomachs open in front of Myokokuji. French witnesses left. The remaining nine samurai were exiled. They could not be buried at Myokokuji because it was a designated temple. Their remains are at nearby Hojuin Temple.
Myokokuji Temple also features a unique dry landscape garden. It is centered around a sago palm. This garden includes a Rokujizo lantern. A gourd-shaped water bowl was donated by Sen no Rikyu. It is a rare treasure. You cannot see anything like it anywhere else in Japan. So here at Myokokuji Temple, we see a blend of history. We also see legend and natural beauty. It shows us the heart of Sakai.