Breathe deep. Here in Ruhwaldpark, the city fades away. This almost unknown park in Berlin’s Westend offers a beautiful escape.
Ruhwaldpark sits atop the former Spandauer Berg. By Berlin standards, this is a mountain. Its highest point rises 30 meters above the Spree.
Let’s step back in time. In the 1860s, Ludwig von Schaeffer-Voit bought this land. He was a commercial councillor and magazine publisher. Schaeffer-Voit hired architect Carl Schwatlo to build a villa. The classicist villa, called Ruhwald Palace, offered stunning views. It overlooked the Spree and Havel rivers, reaching Lake Tegel.
Duckstein, the head gardener, designed the walled park. He planted a beech forest and North American conifers. Duckstein also built an artificial mountain range from boulders in the northwest. An angel statue stood there. It commemorated Schaeffer-Voit’s deceased son.
Just a few years later, Schaeffer-Voit sold the estate to Johann Hoff. Hoff added the Kavaliershaus with its arcade. Now, imagine beer. Since 1840, the Spandauer Bock beer bar operated on Spandauer Berg. Conrad Bechmann, a Bavarian brewer, ran it. In 1884, Bechmann bought the land bordering the park to the west. He built a Renaissance-style villa. A gardener landscaped his property, of course. In 1928, another villa arose in this park. Today, it serves as a kindergarten.
The city of Berlin acquired part of the site around 1924. Eventually, it owned the entire 12-hectare property. But here’s a dark turn. Under pressure from the National Socialists, garden director Pertl demolished Ruhwald Palace and Villa Bechmann. This happened between 1936 and 1942. A pond was built at the park’s lowest point. The park opened to the public.
After World War II, the damaged Kavalierhaus was torn down. In 1987, Ruhwaldpark received landmark protection. As you enter Ruhwaldpark, a small man-made lake greets you. Frogs croak. The city noise disappears. A path runs along the shore. Benches invite you to rest.
A bridge crosses a path that climbs slightly uphill. Steps lead to the top of Spandauer Berg. At the edge, you can discover a small open hut. High trees now block the view. Still, Ruhwaldpark provides a wonderful escape.
Larger meadows appear after climbing the stairs. The arcades shimmer between the bushes. Sadly, the arcades are dilapidated and closed off. Building materials suggest possible repairs.
Busts of Ludwig von Schaeffer-Voit and his wife are within the cordoned-off area. These busts are made by Carl Cauer. Hopefully, they will be restored. Behind the portico stands a sculpture. Ernst-Otto Eichwald created it in 1963. It is entitled Pelican Couple. Along Spandauer Damm, large meadows draw families in summer.
Take a moment to appreciate this green space. Ruhwaldpark stands as a reminder of Berlin’s layered past. From private estate to public park, its story continues to unfold.