Right here at the Jerusalem War Cemetery, history whispers from the stones beneath our feet. This is no ordinary graveyard. It is a testament to courage, sacrifice, and the enduring bond between nations.
The Jerusalem War Cemetery is a British cemetery in Jerusalem. It is for fallen servicemen of the British Commonwealth in World War I during the Palestine campaign. The cemetery is located on Mount Scopus. It is next to the Hadassah Hospital and the Hebrew University of Jerusalem campus. It lies 4.5 km north of the Old City of Jerusalem.
Imagine Palestine in 1917. The Turkish Empire ruled this land. Allied forces advanced into the region. It was a bloody campaign. Many Allied soldiers died. The British established this military cemetery for fallen soldiers. They died far from home. After World War I, the League of Nations gave Britain the Mandate for Palestine. The British Mandate lasted from 1920 to 1948.
Look around you. The Jerusalem War Cemetery holds 2,515 Commonwealth service personnel. This includes 100 unidentified soldiers. Units from Australia, New Zealand, India and Egypt are represented. Soldiers from South Africa and the British West Indies are here. The United Kingdom is well represented. A small number of German and Turkish soldiers are also buried here.
Notice the gravestones. They are identical in shape and size. Each bears the soldier’s rank, name, army unit, and date of death. Families could add a personal message at the foot of the headstones. “What can a man do more than die for his countryman?” one epitaph reads. “Farewell brave son, until we meet again” says another. “Time flies, Love remains” says still another. “His last message, no more wars for me” is particularly poignant. Even William Shakespeare, a British driver who died in 1918, rests here. There is even a small Jewish section. Twenty-four Jewish soldiers served in the British army during World War I.
The Jerusalem Memorial commemorates 3,300 Commonwealth servicemen. They died in Egypt and Palestine. They have no known grave. Sir John Burnet designed the memorial. Gilbert Bayes created the sculptures. The memorial chapel features a mosaic. Robert Anning Bell designed it. Lord Allenby unveiled the memorial on May 7, 1927.
Consider Trooper Eric Harper. He was a New Zealand rugby union international. He is commemorated here. Or Major Philip Glazebrook. He was a British Conservative member of parliament. He is buried here.
The entrance gate honors the Imperial Guard. The unit’s motto is inscribed in stone. It is written in Hebrew, English, and Arabic. A path leads from the entrance to the chapel. It intersects with another path, forming a cross. The Cross of Sacrifice and the Memorial Stone stand at the intersection. These are traditional symbols of British military cemeteries.
Take a moment to appreciate the view. The beautifully kept grounds offer a quiet escape. From here, you can see across the Old City. Laws prevent any construction that would obstruct this view.
As you wander through the Jerusalem War Cemetery, remember Rupert Brooke’s poem. “If I should die, think only this of me: That there’s some corner of a foreign field That is forever England.” This cemetery is a piece of England. It is a piece of Australia. It is a piece of New Zealand. It is a lasting tribute to those who served. It is far from home.