What if I told you that amidst Athens’ bustling Ermou Street, a monument narrowly escaped demolition not once but twice? This is Eisodia tis Theotokou. It stands as a testament to Byzantine architecture. Eisodia tis Theotokou is dedicated to the Presentation of the Virgin Mary.
Eisodia tis Theotokou’s name, Kapnikarea, likely comes from a tax collector’s profession. He collected the “kapnikon” tax. Another name, Kamoucharea, may derive from the luxurious Byzantine textile “kamoucha”. This textile was made in nearby workshops.
Construction of the initial church of Eisodia tis Theotokou occurred just after 1050. It was built over an ancient temple. This temple was dedicated to Athena or Demetra. Architecturally, it is a complex cross-in-square church with a dome. Soon after construction, the chapel of Agia Varvara was added to the northern side of Eisodia tis Theotokou. On the western side, alongside the two churches, was an open gallery. In 1934, the church became the property of the University of Athens. The gallery was then converted into an exonarthex. A colonnaded porch dating from the 12th century stands on the southern side of the exonarthex.
Eisodia tis Theotokou was built using the cloisonné system of masonry. Older stones are placed in the lowest part creating crosses. Very few examples of ceramic kufic decoration exist at the joints of the southern and eastern sides. This decoration mimics Arabic letters. Ancient and Early Christian sculptures are incorporated into the masonry. The dome is of the “Athenian” type. It is octagonal with small columns at the corners and lobed windows. Inside, the dome is supported by four ancient columns with Roman capitals.
Wall paintings of the main church and tripartite bema are of particular importance to Eisodia tis Theotokou. Their style resembles Byzantine art. Photis Kontoglou introduced this style into modern Greek icon painting. In 1942, Kontoglou painted Theotokos Platytera at the church’s arch. This was his first monumental work. The decoration was completed in 1955 with the help of his cooperators. Unknown artists created the wall paintings of the vaulted narthex and exonarthex around 1900. These paintings show western influences. Elli Voila created the mosaic of the Virgin Mary holding Christ at the porch in 1936.
The history of Eisodia tis Theotokou is turbulent. It suffered damages during the liberation struggle. In 1834, demolition loomed. Leon von Klenze, a Bavarian architect, planned the streets of the new Greek capital. He wanted Ermou Street unified and free of obstacles. King Ludwig of Bavaria, father of the young Greek King Otto, intervened to save the monument. The church faced danger again in 1863. The Metropolitan of Athens’ adamant reaction saved it.
Today, Eisodia tis Theotokou stands as a symbol of resilience. It is a blend of history and art. A place where ancient echoes meet Byzantine grandeur and modern artistic expression.