Imagine the echoes of sardana dances filling the air. We are standing before the Església de Sant Joan. This church is not just a building. It is a vibrant piece of Gràcia’s cultural heart.
The Església de Sant Joan stands on what were once the gardens of the Viceroy of Peru’s widow. Look closely at the east wall. You might see the heads of a man and a woman. Two lions and a coat of arms are also visible. These remnants whisper tales of the mansion that predates the church.
Construction of Església de Sant Joan began in 1878. It was completed in 1884. Francesc Berenguer i Mestres designed it. He was a protégé of Gaudí. Some believe Gaudí himself contributed to the interior chapel. It remains a topic of debate. What is certain is that Gaudí regularly worshipped here.
The church suffered damage during the Tragic Week of 1909. It was damaged again in 1938. Fortunately the chapel survived unscathed. Rebuilding finished in 1951.
The interior chapel is a highlight of Església de Sant Joan. This chapel showcases Catalan Art Nouveau style. Mario Maragliano designed the mosaics. They add to the chapel’s unique beauty.
Església de Sant Joan is more than a religious site. It’s a cultural hub. The Orfeó Gracienc performs sardana dances here. It is a key location for the festa major. This is Gràcia’s big annual festival.
The church’s history is intertwined with the local community. Before 1868 Gràcia lacked its own parish. It depended on Barcelona churches. In 1878 the town council acquired the Virreina palace land. The first stone of the new Església de Sant Joan was laid on April 22.
Magí Rius i Mulet directed the initial construction. Enric Sagnier designed the main altar in 1894. Francesc Berenguer i Mestres later added the rectory and the Santíssim chapel.
Josep Maria Tarragona suggests Gaudí designed the Santíssim chapel. He also suggests that Gaudí designed the jubé. He argues for Gaudí’s involvement due to the presence of Maltese crosses. These are characteristic of Gaudí’s work. The parish rector maintains it reflects Gaudí and Berenguer’s close relationship.
The main façade of Església de Sant Joan is symmetrical. It divides into three parts. The central nave rises high. Stone corner pieces accentuate its height. A rectangular doorway marks the entrance. Archivolts unite above a ceramic mosaic. The mosaic displays the church’s name.
The bell tower rises from the presbytery. It has a rectangular base. It has no openings. The Santíssim chapel lies behind the presbytery. Mario Maragliano’s tiles adorn it.
The Santíssim chapel is modernista in style. It was completed in 1909. It is subterranean. It features an apse and four domes covered in trencadís. A Maltese cross with twelve wheat stalks decorates the chapel. Vines with twelve grapes also adorn it. Various Latin inscriptions enhance the decoration.
The lateral facades are simple. Walls of masonry feature small round-arched windows. The transept has portals on each facade. However the northeast portal is bricked up.
The rectory has a rectangular plan. It features varied and unique openings. A set of four Romanesque-inspired openings stands out. The facade combines irregular stone with brick bands.
As we leave Església de Sant Joan consider its layered history. This church represents faith community and artistic collaboration. Its walls have witnessed celebrations disasters and rebirth. It stands as a testament to Gràcia’s enduring spirit.