Wat Suwan

Did the walls of Wat Suwan whisper secrets? They certainly hold centuries of stories. Wat Suwan, also known as Wat Suwannaram Ratchaworawihan, rests quietly along Khlong Bangkok Noi. This temple’s history stretches back to the Ayutthaya period. Back then, it was simply known as “Wat Thong,” meaning “golden monastery.” The identity of its original builder remains shrouded in mystery. During King Taksin’s reign, Wat Suwan served a grim purpose. It was an execution ground for Burmese prisoners of war, a stark contrast to its spiritual function today. King Phutthayotfa Chulalok (Rama I) later renamed it Wat Suwannaram. This signified royal patronage and a shift away from its somber past. Wat Suwan continued to hold a significant role in royal life. Up until the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), it served as the Royal Cremation site for royalty and high-ranking officials. Step inside the ordination hall. You’ll find a stunning display of murals. These masterpieces were painted during the reign of King Nangklao (Rama III), who commissioned two renowned artists: Luang Wichijesda (Kru Thong Yu) and the Chinese artist Luang Seniborirak (Kru Kong Pae). They engaged in a unique competition, each working behind a veil to conceal their progress from the other. These murals depict scenes from the Mahanipata Jataka, specifically the stories of Prince Nemi and Prince Mahosadha. They are considered some of the finest examples of Rattanakosin-era art. Remarkably, around 80 percent of these original murals remain preserved. Notice the distinctive architecture of the ordination hall itself, curved like a Chinese junk. This unique design is reminiscent of the late Ayutthaya period. At the heart of Wat Suwan stands “Phra Satsada,” the principal Buddha image. This sacred statue is believed to hold immense power. Many come to make vows to Phra Satsada, engaging in a ritual called “running the horse.” This involves tying a loincloth, circling the ordination hall three times while mimicking the sound of a horse. Wat Suwan is not without its chilling tales. Whispers of ghostly encounters circulate, a legacy of its time as an execution ground. A spirit house stands on the school grounds, dedicated to the spirits of Burmese soldiers. Some claim to have seen a preta on the bell tower, or a headless male ghost in red chong kraben. One security guard even reported a female apparition at the pier in the dead of night. Wat Suwan is a place of vibrant art, rich history, and whispered secrets. A visit here offers a glimpse into the multifaceted past of this remarkable temple.