Wat Khaenai

Hidden within the vibrant tapestry of Bangkok lies Wat Khaenai. A curious tale unfolds within its walls. Wat Khaenai, also once known as “Madam Faeng’s Temple”, holds a unique place in Bangkok’s history. It was founded in 1833 by a rather unconventional benefactor, Madam Faeng. She was a wealthy woman who owned a brothel on Yaowarat Road. Despite her profession, Madam Faeng was a devout Buddhist. She decided to fund the construction of Wat Khaenai using the earnings from her establishment. When the temple was completed, a grand opening ceremony was held. Madam Faeng invited a respected monk, Father To, to deliver the inaugural sermon. She anticipated praise for her generosity. However, Father To’s sermon took an unexpected turn. He acknowledged her contribution. But he emphasized that merits earned from displaying one’s virtue, regardless of how substantial, would result in limited spiritual rewards. He pointedly referred to the funds used to build Wat Khaenai as “sinful money.” He stated that for every pound donated, Madam Faeng would receive only a shilling’s worth of merit. Despite this pointed critique, Wat Khaenai thrived. The temple was always open to the public and became a center for religious activities. Years later, during the reign of King Chulalongkorn, Madam Faeng’s descendants renovated the temple. They petitioned the king to bestow an official name upon it. The king named it Wat Khanikaphon, derived from the Pali word Gaṇikābala. It translates to “the temple which was the result of the prostitutes’ contributions.” Today, within Wat Khaenai, you can still find remnants of its intriguing past. These include the original presiding Buddha image, the central hall, and a small pagoda. A model of Father To stands in front of the temple, a constant reminder of his candid sermon. Inside, a half-figure of Madam Faeng, covered in gold leaves, is embedded in the wall. An inscription at the base reads, “This Wat Khanikaphon was established in 1833 by Madam Faeng, ascendant of the Paorohit Family.” Wat Khaenai’s story is a testament to the complexities of human nature. It reminds us that even in the most unexpected places, faith, generosity, and history can intertwine to create something truly unique.