月輪寺

Deep in the embrace of Mount Atago’s slopes, nestled amidst ancient trees, lies the enigmatic Tsukinowa-dera, also known as Gatsurin-ji. This remote temple, shrouded in mist and mystery, invites you to step back in time. Tsukinowa-dera’s story is intertwined with the legends of Atago Shrine, a place where fire deities and mountain ascetics once held sway. Imagine the year 704, when two figures, En no Ozunu and Unpen Shonin, journeyed to the foot of Mount Atago. Their path was blocked by a furious storm, thunder echoing through the valleys. After fervent prayers, the tempest subsided, revealing three tengu masters atop a towering cedar tree. These mythical beings, each leading a legion of followers, proclaimed their guardianship of the sacred mountain, a guardianship ordained by Buddha himself. This cedar, declared Kiyotaki Shisho Myojin, became a focal point of worship, marking the very beginnings of Atago Shrine. Tsukinowa-dera, founded in 781 under Emperor Konin’s decree, echoes this mythical origin. The temple, it is said, was part of a grand vision. Inspired by the five sacred mountains of China, five temples were to be erected on Atago’s peaks. Tsukinowa-dera was chosen for Mount Owashigamine. The temple became a place of solace for figures like Kuya, the wandering holy man of the Heian period. It sheltered Kanezane Kujo, a powerful figure who sought refuge from political turmoil within its tranquil walls. Legend has it that in 1207, Honen and Shinran, founders of the Jodo (Pure Land) Sect, visited Kanezane at Tsukinowa-dera. They lamented their impending separation, a consequence of religious persecution. Each carved a statue of himself. These statues, known as the Sanso-zo (Statues of the Three Founders), remain within the temple today. Though two were crafted later, Kanezane’s statue whispers tales from the late Heian period, originally representing Monju Bosatsu in the guise of a monk. Tsukinowa-dera’s treasures include a collection of Heian period statues. Eight of these, including a seated Amida Nyorai and a depiction of Kuya chanting the nembutsu, are designated as Important Cultural Properties. The temple is also renowned for its vibrant rhododendrons, a natural monument designated by Kyoto City. Visiting Tsukinowa-dera requires a pilgrimage of sorts. From the Kiyotaki bus stop, a 90-minute walk up a winding mountain path awaits. It’s a journey back to a time of legends and whispers, a journey to a hidden gem.