Londoners once nicknamed St Mary-le-Strand as St Mary-in-the-Way. For years, the church stood stranded on a traffic island. Today, thanks to pedestrianisation, we can appreciate its history and architecture more easily.
St Mary-le-Strand’s story isn’t just about bricks and mortar. It reflects London’s growth and faith. The original St Mary-le-Strand stood south of here. It was recorded in the 12th century. But it was demolished in 1549 for Somerset House.
Fast forward to 1711. London’s population boomed. Parliament created a commission to build fifty new churches. Their goal was to strengthen Anglican faith. These churches became known as Queen Anne Churches. St Mary-le-Strand was one of them, designed by James Gibbs.
Gibbs was a Scottish architect who trained in Rome. Italian architecture inspired him. St Mary-le-Strand was his first major project. He bridged English Baroque and neo-classical styles. Later, he designed St Martin-in-the-Fields.
Construction of St Mary-le-Strand began in 1714. It finished in 1724. Originally, Holywell Street ran to the north. When the Strand expanded in the 19th century, Holywell Street disappeared. This is why it was nicknamed St Mary-in-the-Way.
Notice the semi-circular porch. The steps are concentric. Gibbs drew inspiration from St Paul’s transept fronts. They, in turn, were inspired by Santa Maria della Pace in Rome. Gibbs initially planned a column topped by a Queen Anne statue. After her death in 1714, the plan changed. Also, the design seemed too Roman Catholic. Today, the spire is a landmark on the Strand.
Simon Jenkins called St Mary-le-Strand the finest eighteenth-century church in London. We can admire it from all angles. Inside St Mary-le-Strand, your eyes are drawn to the ceiling. Chrysostom Wilkins created the plasterwork. It’s hand-moulded and gilded with gold leaf. The apse is worth a closer look. The decoration is carved stone. This domed apse reflects Italian architecture. Gibbs’ tutor, Carlo Fontana, designed Santi Apostoli in Rome. The carvings feature thirty-three cherub heads. The pulpit is original. It was installed in 1721.
Now, look at the stained glass windows at the nave’s end. The Victorian glass was destroyed in the Blitz. Churchwarden Sidney Toy redesigned them after the war. They were the first new stained glass in London after the war.
St Mary-le-Strand survived the Blitz. Volunteer fire-watchers guarded the roof. Sidney Toy was one of them. After the war, St Mary-le-Strand became the official church of the Women’s Royal Naval Service. The Wrens made all the cushions. There is also a Book of Remembrance. The Wrens hold memorial and anniversary services here.
I was lucky enough to see the roof. The staircase is cantilevered. Each stair is supported by the one below. Restoration work has secured the urns and stonework. From the roof, there’s a great view towards Trafalgar Square.
Below the church lies the crypt. Family vaults were once outside. Victorian road-widening changed that. Some human remains are still in the crypt. Today, it is mostly used for storage. The church’s oil-burning boiler dates from 1851.
Today, St Mary-le-Strand is at the center of a pedestrianisation project. The Strand around the church is now pedestrian-friendly. The church is raising money for repairs and renovations. They also want to improve facilities and access. There are plans to better use the crypt space. St Mary-le-Strand hosts art installations, candlelit concerts, and classical music performances.
Flanked by King’s College and Somerset House, St Mary-le-Strand is a key community hub.